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| ![]() Powered by | ![]() Q. Issue with my electrical wiring. where to start? | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||


Q. A good friend's car caught fire by electrical wiring. why? it's an old mustang. we bought our cars as project cars and are trying to fix them up to get them back up and running. we were over at his house today and when we turned the key, it started and then we shut it off to check for any leaks and then we noticed smoke coming from hood and when we opened it, the wires caught fire back by the firewall where the wires connect to a terminal. any ideas why? the only thing we did was rewire a wire that went bad earlier when we tested it. i don't remember where that wire went but it was a 12 gauge wire with a fusible link and then it went to a 16 gauge wire i believe where it connected. what we did was to just buy a straight 12 gauge wire and connect it without the fusible link and then having it go to a smaller size wire. he said he asked on here and the answers he got said that was ok to do. so, what happened? too much pressure to handle or what?
we put the fire out (really quick and burnt two wires like two inches long), so we were going to replace the ones that only burnt. the others were fine. that should be good right? i guess now we can go back to using that fusible link. it's just funny because we started his car many times before and nothing happened. just today.
i don't think we have to get a whole new wiring harness. after all, once it starting smoking, we immediately put it out. we later looked at the wires and the terminal looks perfectly fine; however, the only damage was two wires that burnt. so, i'm just thinkin' that we can go to our local parts store and buy those wires with the gauge and rewire it. that was the only thing that happened. nothing major, but just a couple wires melted.
"Something shorted out>..."
Something shorted out> Best start looking at what you were doing before the burn out> If all was well before>


Q. Need help bad, electrical problem, how do i get a diagram of the wiring of my car? ??? i have a 1993 dodge ram van b250
for 3 years i have not had heat. a/c is fine.
the first year had very little heat, 2nd year even less heat, 3rd year no heat, totally gone. the blower is fine, not real strong but fine.
here's the problem. my back street mechanic checked my fuses under my inside dash to see if a fuse was blown to my heater. now one of my wires under my hood was sparking and it blew out my car alarm. also, my car had to be jumped every morning because the battery went dead due to this. the wire that was sparking was unplugged but now the blower doesnt work. i strongly believe that the wire unplugged goes to the blower, but not sure. it isnt the alarm wire, definately. this wire is along the back wall of the engine with all the other wires. its pink. and connects to the battery.
how do i get a diagram of the wiring of my car?
how do i get it to stop sparking ??
i have a new heater core.
antifreeze over flow and in radiator is fine.
i also had it flushed 2 times.
new heater control valve
new thermo and gasket
new thermostat housing
new water pump
please tell me the experience you have with cars
"First a wiring diagram may not completely help if the alarm is aftermarket..."
First a wiring diagram may not completely help if the alarm is aftermarket. Go to the library and get the Chilton manual for 1993 Dodge Pickups. The Wiring diagram should be there. I suspect your original problem was one of 2 things The heater hose is collapsing or is not connected {one can bypass the heater core by loop routing the heater hose. The Heater core could also be bad or clogged. The Second possible item is that your switch may be bad, There is a third option but less likely, there may be a vacuum issue preventing the damper from closing {on the outside vent" the heater core may be heating up, but cold air coming in is overwhelming any affects. My first guess is the heater hose. Best advice dump the shade tree and take it to an ASE certified shop!


Q. What do i need to have checked out before buying a house? i am looking into buying a house that needs a lot of work. ((i live in nyc so am taking advantage of the downturn in market to pick up a deal.))
i found what appears to be a steal but it needs work.
what are the most important parts of the home that i should have inspected in order to find out if the property is worth purchasing. i want to avoid buying a money pit.
what sort of problems should i avoid? bad roof, bad plumbing. what problems are fixable? bad dry wall, bad electrical wiring?
if anyone knows a good inspector/contractor in nyc/brooklyn/queens area please let me know.
"Have a thorough building inspection done..."
Have a thorough building inspection done. Different inspectors have different expertise and may more closely examine different aspects. Check out the background and qualifications of your inspector. Accompany the inspector on the inspection and ask questions and listen carefully to him. This will help you know exactly what you are buying. Many inspectors have formerly worked in the trades and can tell you an approximate cost for various repairs. Make sure he gets up on roof, in attic, in crawl space, in garage, in short everywhere in premises.
DON'T buy more home than you can easily afford. Calculate the cost of home repairs in there, too. Can you stand to live in it as is? Can you stand to live in it as work is done? Can you afford to have work done before you move in? Strongly recommend floor sanding and drywall repairs BEFORE you move in because of all the dust they generate.


Q. Why is my bronco dieing while going down the road ? all the electrical ,shuts off and the dies? 3 days ago i had a power surge in my bronco ,i went to park turned off the key and it didnt shut off ,i got out and pulled the coil wire , babied it home. next day checked everything ,ie. fuses alt. batt.toggle switches.all good ,go 1 mile and it quits running ,tow to a shop . he said the ignition module burnt out .159.00 and 150 labor .i get in go 2 blocks ,dies again ? i took it back ,the thing is in mint condition ,but when i got it last month it had several wires cut ? so i put in starter,battery,water pump,radiator ,hoses,belts .reconnect all wirers ,and drive from oregan to az .all has been fine for 3 weeks excert only 12.36 volts when operate,use a twst light and it will jump to 13.66 volts ,tested alt at checker ,a+ check all fusible links x56 of them .check all wires under the hood ,like new , when i had the surge the other day it blew out both head lights im a good mechanic , i love a good challenge , i do all ,brakes to engines , but dang it im stumped . this is an 86 ford bronco 5.2 fuel injected 302 v8 4x4 in mint shape , this is a nice truck ,it sat for 2 years before i got ,hence all the parts ,injectors leak a tad , but why all the electrical now ?why didnt the fuse pop first rather than the head lights , ac motor went as fast as a jet at the same time , they cut the battery lead to alt and wired to a toggle switch,and a wire feeds the fuse panel ,no power inside with key switch . ill send you a pound of fudge or 20.00 just to pick a brain . tomorrow the shop will call wanting more money too. i gave 200.00 already and nothing to show for it . im unemployed ,dont they know? help .help;this has got me bad , no sleep .bad dreams trying to think ....what it is ? dam computers leave em in the house not in my truck please................
"Replaced it does not mean its still good..."
Might have better luck getting answers in the FORD section not the Chevy section My guess would be a bad ignition module...just because you replaced it does not mean its still good .
Fuses blow for amps not volts...


Q. Bad ground wire in chevy 95 lumina? read carefully.......... my friend has a 96 chevy lumina. the battery kept dyeing on the car and would not start. he got a new battery and got a few good runs of it and then the battery went dead again. we pulled the alternator out and bench checked it. the altenator checked good. jumpstarted the battery and got the car to his house. this is where i a totally confused!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! turned off the ignition and tried to recrank, car was totally dead. not enough juice to even make the tone when the key is in the ignition. looked around and told him to wiggle the ground wire, the car electrical system starting clicking. tried cleaning the terminal to the ground wire and put it back on. nothing at all. couldn't even jump the car again!!! i put a test light on the positive of the battery and touched it to the gound wire (terminal and bare wire). the light comes for 1 second and then fades out every time. what gives? it is 1 solid ground wire, i can't find the other end though.
what should i due? where should i start? how do i do it?
its a 95, sorry
"Connected by a good heavy duty battery cable..."
Are you sure the battery has not gone flat?
You can replace the earth (ground) wire quite simply. You say that you cannot see the other end of the earth wire, this does not matter because you can fit another one and bolt it to a different place.
What you must do is to make sure that the battery negative terminal, the car body and the car engine are all connected by a good heavy duty battery cable .
Just buy two new leads from the auto shop and bolt one to whatever you can on the engine (it must be a good clean tight connection) the other end to the battery terminal.
You must also fit a second lead from either the battery ground terminal or the engine to the car body.


Q. Can anyone help with 94 fire bird electrical problem? we have a 94 fire bird 3.4 v-6 that just up and died. it cranks over but wont start, similar to if it were out of gas. the fuel pump and filter are fine, and it has half a tank of gas, just to rule all that out.
when it died, i had checked the fuses and none looked blown out. i checked the coil packs and none of them were giving off a spark, so i assumed that the module went bad. i got a used module and coil packs (there are 3 coil packs, with 2 nubs on each pack, for a total of 6) and when we tried to start it, the 10 amp ignition fuse kept blowing out. i am not 100% sure if the 10 amp ignition fuse had blown out back when the car originally died out, because it was very dark out, but as best as i could tell, all the fuses seemed ok.
i know its not wise to do, but we were in a severe bind, so i put a 20 amp fuse in the ignition fuse box, and that blew out too. i then tried a 30 amp fuse, and the car started and ran fine.
but...
we went about 10 miles, and the car died again. this time the 2nd coil packs did not have a spark, but the 30 amp fuse was not blown.
i hoped that the original module had just died of natural causes without blowing out the 10 amp ignition fuse, and maybe the 2nd used module had a short or was going bad, and that was why it kept blowing out the 10 amp and 20 amp ignition fuses, but maybe it burned itself out on the more powerful 30 amp fuse.
so we got a 3rd module and coil packs (supposedly tested) but there was still no spark when we put it in and cranked it over, and the 10 amp ignition fuse did not blow out either.
a friend tested some of the wires, and said that there was no power going to any of the 3 plugs or clip snaps (whatever the're called) that attach to the coil packs, and the 10 amp ignition fuse had power going thru it.
everyone we ask tells us something different... and say it is the crank sensor, or knock sensor, or computer, or security ignition-key system. the "security" idiot light has been going on and off since we got the car last year.
if any of this might be related... about 6 months ago the car ran real rough, and the computer check showed a bad erg valve, so we replaced it, which did nothing, and it turned out to be just a bad spark plug wire. the dashboard check engine light and security light still go on occasionally. the dash guage also shows the temp as being about 20 degrees higher then it actually is too. if the car has been sitting for a while, it takes a long time to start, and might be related to a bad valve on the fuel pump which doesn't keep the gas in the line.
i have no clue what or where the crank or knock sensors are, or how to replace them, or even if they could be the problem? we were also going to have someone bypass the ignition security system a long time ago, but could i do that myself if that is the problem?
we have been stranded at our house for over a week now, and we sure would appreciate it if anyone might know for sure what is wrong, and how to fix it?
"If your vats or security system goes out you can bypass it..."
honestly it could be a combination of things causing it's current state. It should still run with a bad knock sensor. The computer will use a "dumb" run condition to compensate for the lack of signal from the knock signal. The crank sensor is next to the bottom of the crank pulley or harmonic balancer if it goes out it may not run. If your VATS or security system goes out you can bypass it. Measure the resistance going through the key chip. Then buy a resistor of the same amount of ohms and mount it in a new switch. It may be easier to have that guy bypass it.


Q. I asked this electrical question b4 and i know i need an electrician but.? i turn on the bath lights and the kitch and bath now don't work, i check the brakers (each one) because for some weird reason (to me anyway)the braker didn't trip, or maybe it did (in a normal world) anyway since no orange marking came on braker, i reset everyone and tested everyone to see if there was power and yes they all have power. i imagine that the lights run in a series kind of like christmas tree lights if one section goes, find the bad one ad replace it. now the question is this, instead of the recepticle going bad can the light switch or were the ligh bulb on ceiling conect go bad? (should i also check those since i lost power when i flick the switch. also if the main wire comes from the braker box and they all have juice, but my kitchen does not, is that main wire feeding another room, therefore is going into an electrical box (kind of like an intersection) which feeds the room but the wire going to the kitchen is blocked off(loose) is that right? by the way it's a very old veryyyy old house no gfi, no garbage disposal, no gfi outside (i'm pretty sure) we never had this problem and i think we always had the same appliances going could the wire be the sourse (gone bad) or could a recepticle(bridge)gone bad? in advance thank you for your time and answers.
"For loose or burnt connections or damaged receptacles..."
You're right, you do need an electrician, but to answer your question.... first the older the house the crazier the wiring. There is not one breaker per room in all older houses, the circuits were run to save money. The lights and receptacles were not on separate circuits. I would start where the problem originated and look for loose connections. The most likely cause is a loose neutral, but the hot wire can come loose as well. Depending on the age of the house, you could have receptacles with a place on the back to stab the wire in... these often come loose. You may also have aluminum wiring which could cause loose connections due to corrosion or normal expansion/ contraction. You will need some way to check for voltage. There are several manufacturers that make test pens that will tone or flash to let you know voltage is present. Start in the room where the problem began and check every receptacle. Receptacles typically run through the wall studs unless you have a door or floor up obstruction of some sort. Keep in mind they may also jump from one room to another, but this typically happens on a shared wall. If you find one that has power... start there. Then assume the circuit will go either left or right from there and begin looking for loose or burnt connections or damaged receptacles . You will probably pull out several receptacles before you find the problem. Circuits typically start closer to the main panel and work away from it.You will also want to check your switches and depending on how it was wired ... you may have the neutral connections in the light fixture/ceiling boxes. Also, since you have checked the power in your panel, you may also want to check the neutrals... if one is loose or broken the circuit will work intermittently or not at all. If after all of this you still do not find a problem, you may have a broken wire in the wall or attic... think back to any recently installed items ... new cable/satellite, new pictures or other items nailed into the wall that could damage a wire.... or even a rodent infestation. Hopefully this is clear as mud.... just be careful as you will be working with at least 120 volts and can be SHOCKED... just a healthy reminder! Good Luck.


Q. This afternoon the power in my house flashed on & off, i heard a buzzing noise, and the power was messed up...? for about a half hour. it happened yesterday afternoon around the same time, too. i called the power company, and they checked out the outside wires - everything was fine there. i called my landlord, he checked out the breaker box, said there was one wire loose and he fixed it. there was a hot electrical smell by one outlet in the living room, and plugged into the power strip in the living room on the opposite was our tv, dvr, dvd, a lamp, my wireless dsl box, & a digital photo frame. now the tv and the dsl box are dead - won't turn on, even when plugged into another outlet. the dvr & dvd seem to be fine. after the landlord left (his explanation was our tv went bad and blew up everything), i noticed that the bathroom light is dead in another room in the house. it is a long, tube fluorescent bulb. none of this makes sense to me. do any electricians out there have any insight into what in the world could be going on here??? thanks so much :-)
thank you for your responses so far. there was definitely no lightning - it is very cold where i live; however, the pipes are not frozen and our space heater was unplugged and not in use. also, the outlet is working fine again; furthermore, the power strip that everything was plugged into is working fine - i checked each of the individual plugs, and they are all working. finally, i had all of those appliances listed plugged into a surge protector power strip, so i don't believe that is the case either. curiouser and curiouser...
"Surge protectors are important if you have expensive electronics..."
Power surge blew out your equipment. It sounds like it could happen again so if you dont have any surge protectors you best unplug all your equipment that works and go buy some because you will lose anything that is turned on during one. Surge protectors are important if you have expensive electronics. Make sure you buy one for your fridge too because that will be expensive.
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