Dominique | "I realised something was wrong with my electrical installation was when i checked and..."
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 Q. Electrical code/wiring in tucson, az? hi,
i'm doing a preliminary search in buying a house in tucson, az, and have been looking at 1950s homes. none of the electrical is current/updated. does anyone know the year when codes were changed? i think it was in the 70s but i don't know exactly. this would help my first steps in searching, as i'm tired of looking at homes that have no ground or crazy wiring.
"The national electrical code and most local electrical codes are revised every few years..."
The National Electrical Code and most local electrical codes are revised every few years. Electrical systems started using Romex and 3 prong outlets in the 60's, with additional revisions to how they were used in the 70's. GFI's or GFCI's (ground fault current interrupting) were required in the 90's. I have a couple Victorians in San Francisco with wiring that is almost a century old. Some houses still have gas light fixtures. It all works and is not unsafe if used properly. Each code change is a small incremental improvement to safety. I am fine with my 2-wire knob and tube wiring with fuses instead of circuit breakers in my Victorians and only upgrade the electrical systems for a particular room when I am remodelling the room.
Obviously newer systems are nicer. Prior to WWII there was only one receptacle required to be in a room, after that one was required on each of the 4 walls. Now there has to be one within 6' of any point on a wall and within 2' on a kitchen countertop.
You sound like you will want an 80's or 90's house. Lead paint is on walls painted before 1978 (in California, not sure about the date in Arizona). Asbestos was no longer an acceptable building material about the same time. ( I think asbestos and lead paint are fine to live with as long as you don't eat the paint and break the asbestos.)
Hope this helps.
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Q. Are us electrical wiring codes local, state or national? and can you find out about them on-line? i would like to check out the wiring in my house in the us, and update it if needed. i have put in standard wiring in italy, but i don't know what the code standards are in the us.
"For the most part every code follows the national electric code as..."
for the most part every code follows the national electric code as published by the national fire protection assoction. however there are local and state additions to this code in some places. the easiest way to avoid problems is to talk to a local inspector. contary to common belief they don't like failing someone and usually are all to willing to work with you. another thing to remember is under the NEC it is the inspector that decides what meets the code and his word is final. there is no appeal.
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Q. California electrical code wiring? do the fridge and microwave need ther own dedicated circuits? can i use juction boxes in the crawl space under the house?
"If you have any questions about code..."
Yes, each one should be on it's own 20 amp circuit with 12 awg size wire. As for junction boxes, yes they can be in the crawl space as long as the crawl space is accessible. It's no different then putting a box in an attic, as long as it's accessible. As I've said in other posts, if you have any questions about code, call your local Inspector and ask, since they have final say on code compliance.
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Q. Is there a housing code restricting exposed electrical wire on a ceiling?
"Call local zoning office for code info..."
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Q. Can a house be condemned if it were not up to electrical code? 1947 house still has wires from then too.
"Just because it has faulty wiring does not mean it would get condemned..."
They condemn houses for being in terrible shape or unsafe to live in. Just because it has faulty wiring does not mean it would get condemned. They may not insure the home till it is looked at by a competent electrical contractor or the city inspector.
Many home have the original wiring for over 130 years ago does not mean it is not safe it is just not up to code.
They may suggest to update the wiring and service but chances are to condemn are rare unless it is just unlivable.
Good Luck:)
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Q. What to do if there is no color code in the electrical wire? my electrical wire doesn't have color codes (only green), how to tell hot or neutral? someone told me that stripped housing plastic wire is hot, the smooth wire is neutral. is that correct? please help me, and i don't want to be shocked. thanks
if you don't want get shocked then you need to test the wires with a multi meter don't try to test something that can hurt you without using the proper tools,your right about the color and the texture of the wire though but be safe,not sorry
if its hot it will tell you and if its not it will tell you when you use the proper tools
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Q. Electrical code questions in remodeling.? i'm rehabbing a house i just purchased to be used as a rental. i know how to do wiring, but i don't know what the codes are.
anyone know how far above the floor electrical outlets have to be and how close together they have to be in a wisconsin residence in bedrooms, living room and kitchen? are gfi outlets required in the kitchen?
thanks a lot!
"Per the 2005 national electric code..."
Per the 2005 National Electric Code, there is no required height above the floor. Many folks use 18" or 20" AFF (above finished floor) to the center of the receptacle. Personally, I put them at 24" AFF or higher, because I do not like to bend that far. For seniors, 36" AFF is not unreasonable, and is probably appreciated.
Receptacles in living rooms, bedrooms and kitchen walls (not countertops) are required as follows: Any wall more than 24" wide must have at least one receptacle. Receptacles shall be spaced not more than 12 feet apart, measured at the floor line. You can measure around inside corners. I put them closer together - about 8 feet apart, and adjacent to or below every window (for window lights/decorations).
At kitchen countertops, recepatacles are required at any section of counter 12" wide or more. They shall be spaced at not more than 48" on center. They are not to be placed on the wall behind a range or sink. They MUST be GFI protected. One is to be laced within 12" of one side of the sink, and within 24" on the other side.
A minimum two 20 amp 125 volt circuits are required for kitchen receptacles. The dining room receptacles are also required to be on a 20 amp 125 volt circuit. Typical kitchens - new or re-wired - have four to six circuits for receptacles and appliances.
If you are not familiar with the codes, get the 2006 Internatiional Residential Code. The IRC contains requirements from the National Electric Code. It states these requirements, and has diagrams. It costs about $65 and is available at larger book stores.
Check with your local municipal building inspector - they know which code your locality follows. Since they also inspect the work, it is best to check ahead of time.
As always, I suggest you have the work performed by a licensed electrician.
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Q. Electrical question...what size should service wires be for 2 one-hundred amp services in a two family house? i ask that becuase nec code specifies wire size for services according to amperage for single and multifamily dwellings...but don't specify if you're suppose to add the amperage up if you have more than one service...or the wire size that will accomodate 100 amp service will still be sufficient with another 100 amp service.
this depends on whether both 100 amp services will use the same drop line or will have separate drop lines with separate weather heads....if both of them will be gang mounted with one service head then you will have to use 2/0 copper or 4/0 aluminum....if they are` both going to have there own weather head and services then you would only need 1/0 copper or 2/0 aluminum...plus grounds for both services....
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Q. I need to run pvc conduit from the attic to the basement (wiring). is it ok to drill a 3" hole in a top plate? i need to run low voltage wire in my house and i need to place 3" pvc conduit from attic to basement (9 ft). i want to be sure that i don't damage the integrity of the top plate by drilling a hole too large in the top plate (a 2 x 4 is 3.5" inches wide, leaving 1/2 inch on either side of the hole for integrity). i can go with 2" if needed. does anyone know if this is covered in nec (electrical code)?
Top plate of a wall is what ties the studs of a wall together. In general drilling throungh beams etc if you take out more than 1/3 of the thickness then you are compromising the beams ability to bear a load...just a rough rule of thumb. I definitely would not drill a 3 inch hole through 2x4. Recall that OD of 3 inch pipe is 3.5 inches so infact you will be cutting the top plate completely to get a nominal 3 inch conduit through! Use multiple 1 or even 3/4 inch conduits or find an outside route around the wall to the sub floor.
Good luck
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Q. Nec code question- dream home? would it be safe(within the national fire prevention agency's national electrical code) to run every circuit (except a few for some appliances and security/fire alarms) in my house going from my main panel to an enclosure,(not sure on size, probably a little bigger than the traffic control ones) in order for plc switching? what i am doing is basically making a home automation system from scratch. have been working in the electrical field years, specializing in control ckts and fire alarm systems. what i want to do is run a ton of low voltage sensors of all kinds in and around the perimeter of my house. my goal is to have little or no switches in the dream home i am planning. if this is within code, how would i go about getting a permit for this? (i already have wiring diagrams and have estimated the cost of material to be over $50,0000) i am very serious about this and will follow all codes related to house wiring
"This elaborate control panel and have an electrical inspector want to see a ul..."
Depends, you may end up building this elaborate control panel and have an electrical inspector want to see a UL listing for it, don't laugh, happens here in Minnesota all the time, but you can save yourself a lot of problems and buy the stuff all ready made from the factory with UL listing, just put your PLC in an approved enclosure and use whatever output cards you need to control the equipment you buy, you may even be able to do what you want without the PLC, we put in a bunch of GE stuff like that a couple years ago, the controller that came with it would do about anything you wanted to do, and cheaper than putting all of it together yourself.
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